The Night Time Ride in a Yellow Cab

This blog is for all those brave hearts who have experienced hailing and if lucky travelling in a cab on the streets of Calcutta.

For someone who frequently travels by cabs, I always have a feeling similar to the one I used to have in school when awaiting my results of Hindi (the only subject in which I have the distinction of failing once, in my life). Or, as Forrest Gump would have said if he ever had the misfortune to travel by a cab in Calcutta, it’s like a box of chocolates…you never know what you are gonna get!

And as majority of Calcuttans would agree, more often than not, the box turns out to be empty.

You see, in Calcutta, the tables are well and truly turned the other way.

Let’s visualize an interaction to initiate a cab ride in a Utopian world.

Person wants to travel to a certain place. He hails an empty cab. Cab stops.  Person hops on. States destination. Cab starts rolling down the road….happy ending!!!

Now let’s shift gears to Calcutta…

Scenario 1:

Lady hails Cab. Cab slows down but does not really stop. Cab driver looks askance at the lady with eyebrows raised one-eighth of an inch, which would make Jeeves the butler so proud!!

Lady (with a pleading look on her face): Jaaben? (Will you take a fare?)

Cabbie: Kahaan Jaana hain? (Where do you want to go?)

Lady: I want to go to Esplanade.

Cabbie: No, I don’t want to go north. I am travelling down south.

And with that, the cab picks up speed leaves the lady in distress in a haze of black smoke.

Scenario 2:

Know-All hails cab. Cab stops.

Cab Driver: Where do you want to go?

Know-All: South City Mall

Driver: No, there will be a huge traffic jam near the mall. I don’t want to go there.

Know-All: Ok, where do you want to go?

Driver: I am going towards Esplanade. If you want to go any place on that way, get in.

Know-all: Ok, drop me at the PAS Road crossing

Moral of the story: Life is full of small compromises! J

This is something which every Calcuttan has come to accept and live with. Of course, it’s very difficult if not down right impossible, to keep the Calcuttan down for long. So, you have the occasional memorable interactions, which ends up as a anecdote to add spice to many an evening adda.

Take for instance, my friend Yummraj who has this rebellious spirit which refuses to be cowered by the burly cab drivers and their tank like cabs. He simply refuses to state his destination before boarding the cab.  Of course, as a result, he usually has to hail not less than half a dozen cabs before he gets a cab driver who takes mercy and agrees to take fare without asking for the destination.

And then there was the rare occasion, when the cabbie was taken off-guard.

Yummraj to Cabbie: Wanna go?

Cabbie: Kidher Jaana hai?

Yummraj: Chand pe jaane ka soch raha tha! Aap chaloge? (I was thinking of going to the moon! Will you go?)

The cabbie had certainly not expected such a reply and broke into laughter: Chand pe?? Thik hai…chaliye…le chalte hain (The moon?? Sure thing. Hop on. I am game. )

Or take the case of my friend Mr. Sen, who in his day-time job goes around as a professor of history. But, come sun down, he puts on his mask and goes around bashing and beating irreverent cab drivers to pulp.

Ok, the last part was an exaggeration. But, believe it or not, he once boarded a cab, and stated his destination. The cab driver, not knowing whom he was dealing with, actually refused!

Mr. Sen, instead of getting out of the cab, quietly took out a book from his bag and started reading. The cab driver tried everything from pleading, cajoling to threatening, but to no avail. Mr. Sen kept on reading.

After some fifteen long minutes, the driver understanding the futility of his attempts pleaded, “Dada, ektu beshi kichu diye deben. Ami apnake nie jachchi.”(Sir, please pay me some extra tip, I will take you to your destination). And so, the cab driver lived to tell his tale to his grand children!

On another occasion, I have personally seen Mr. Sen get out and walk away in the middle of a busy road from a cab in fury, because the driver wanted to take a longer route to the destination. Nothing unusual there. But, Mr. Sen did not even bother to pay the fare, even though half the distance to the destination had already been covered. Even that’s not surprising, for people who know Mr. Sen and his fury. The surprising part to me was that the cab driver did not even attempt to ask for the fare.

Of course, it’s been 10 years since I experienced the event, and I make sure to tease Mr. Sen about the incident at every get together. Of course it helps, that god has been generous in providing nearly 4 stones of additional weight to Mr. Sen than what god gave Know-All! J

I learnt my lesson that day….size always matters! J

So, you will appreciate my concern when I left one of our showrooms near Jodhpur Park (an up market locality in South Calcutta) last Tuesday at around 11:00 p.m. I had to travel to my residence in one of the suburban areas of South Calcutta, a place made famous by a certain cricketer named Sourav Ganguly, who happens to reside there.

Now, it is a locality notorious for its traffic snarls and normally getting a cab in daytime to the place is nothing short of a miracle!

So, with some nervousness, I hailed a cab. And he did not disappoint. He refused point blank. After couple more refusals, I decided to cross the road and started walking towards the major junction of Jadavpur Thana, hoping to get better results.

As I was crossing the road, I noticed a cab standing by. I approached it, half expecting another refusal. The driver was an old man, in his sixties.

Muttering my prayers, I asked: “Chalenge?” (Will you go?)

The Driver, to my surprise actually smiled and said: “Sahab, chalne ki liye to baithe hain. Zaroor chalenge. Baithiye. (I am here to take people around. Of course, I will go! Please get in.)”

With mouth gaping in surprise, I opened the door and hopped on. And when I stated my destination, there was no sign of any displeasure, nor did he ask for any extra tip, a common practice, if you are travelling late at night.

I could not keep myself from blurting out: “It’s really such a nice surprise to find someone who agreed to take a fare without asking for the destination.”

The driver replied, “ Saheb, I ply the cab only at night time. How can I afford to refuse anyone?”

Know-All: You mean, you work all night long?

Driver: Yes Babu. I start my day, or night, at around 8 in the evening. I keep driving till about 5 or 6 in the morning. The owner of the car rents it to another driver for the morning period.

Know-All: Don’t you get tired? Working at night? And is it really financially worth the effort?

Driver: Well, it is tough, and I am not getting any younger. I am already 61. But, then again, I have a large family to feed. I have five sons and one daughter.  I have managed to marry off only one of my sons, and the daughter.  Financially, some days are good and I manage to earn even four hundred rupees (around 8 dollars). But, on other days, I am not even able to earn enough to pay the car’s rent. 3 of my sons have started earning. So, they discourage me from driving the cab. But, then again, I drive 3-4 days in a week. And, I believe one should keep working as long as the body permits. Keeps the mind alert.

By this time, we had reached my residence and it was time to get off. The fare was an exact 100 rupees. Even though he did not ask for it, I paid a tip of twenty bucks. He thanked me graciously.

As I went inside to the warmth of my home, the Taxi Driver drove off in search of another fare.

5 Must Watch Movies this Christmas & New Year

There must have been so many different lists compiled by so many different people about everything under the Milky Way, be it list of best smart phones or lest of best lipsticks to use during winter!  But, sometimes its fun to simply jump onto the band wagon (Or would it be a reindeer powered sledge!). Of course, I am a big-time movie buff and ergo my list of favorite movies to watch this season. But, is there any diktat from St. Nicholas aka Santa Claus regarding the type of movies one should watch? I certainly am not aware of any such memo which Santa might have sent.

So, what type of movies should one watch? While compiling my list, I have tried to keep one thing in mind. Christmas is a time for happiness. So, all the movies I recommend are comedies, i.e. they have a happy ending. Secondly, all of them, and I might be accused of stretching the imagination, espouse some value or other of the spirit of Christmas.

So, watch the movies at leisure and let me know if you like them. And, I honestly believe, these are all evergreen movies, worth watching again and again. So, you can definitely watch them again, if you have seen them all!

In keeping with the trend of any list worth its salt, I will count-down from 5 to 1.

Number 5- One Fine Day

Starring 2 of the most talented stars in contemporary times, George Clooney and Michelle Pfieffer, One Fine Day is the story of two single parents (Pfeiffer & Clooney) whose paths cross one rainy morning in the city of New York, and keep crossing the whole day. Pfeiffer (Melanie) is a divorced single mother, who works as an architect. Clooney (Jack) is a divorced journalist who finds himself saddled with his daughter by his ex-wife (who has re-married and is going on a honeymoon) for the whole week. Melanie’s day starts off on a bad note, because of Jack’s forgetfulness, which causes her son and Jack’s daughter to miss their field trip. This forces both parents to take care of each other’s children, because of the extremely busy work schedule they have. At their respective workplace also, Melanie and Jack face crises which are potentially job threatening. The story beautifully weaves the different incidents the parents face both at work and in managing the kids through the day. Of course, what makes the movie eminently watchable is the wonderful performance by Michelle Pfeiffer, as the hassled mother who is trying to juggle her career and her personal life. Clooney is his usual charismatic easy-going self, as a father who is suddenly made to cope with unforeseen situations.

A feel good movie, it will definitely put a smile on your face, even on the coldest night.

Number 4- Milagro Beanfield War

Directed by one of my favorite directors and actors, Robert Redford, Milagro Beanfield War is one of those quaint movies which never quite make it in the box office. A mix of fantasy and reality, the movie deals with an issue which is quite relevant in today’s India. How do people react when development and big business reaches a rural community?

Set in the fictional rural town of Milagro somewhere in New Mexico, with a predominantly Hispanic population, it tells the story of Joe Mondragon, an unemployed handyman, struggling to eke out a living for his family. Mondragon rebels against the big corporation building a new township in Milagro. All the landholders have sold their land to the corporation except Mondragon. Due to water laws, which allow only the corporation to use the water, Mondragon is unable to use the water from the irrigation ditch running past his farm. A rebellion more impulsive than planned, as the story reveals, the film studies the different perspectives of the situation, without portraying any of the characters as completely villainous or heroic.

I say it’s a must watch this Christmas!

Number 3- Falling In Love

Ok, this one is probably the most intense of all the 5 movies I recommend. For Hindi and Sharukh Khan Movie buffs, it might interest them to note that the Karan Johar movie Kabhi Alvida Na Kehna, is based on this movie starring the wonderful Meryl Streep and Robert De Niro. Watch this to decide whether KANK is anywhere near to the original!

2 married strangers meet randomly while shopping for Christmas gifts for their respective families. Their gifts get mixed up, and they again bump into each other on the train to New York. The meeting soon blossoms into romance, before either can realize the same. It’s a story which is makes outstanding viewing, due to the excellent performance of Streep and De Niro.

Why is it ideal for Christmas? Who gives a damn! It’s a good movie so added it to the list! J

Number 2- The Best Years of Our Lives

An absolute golden oldie, this 1946 movie directed by the great William Wyler, is one of my absolute favorites. I must have seen this movie at least 20 times!

Considered one of the greatest films ever by Roger Ebert, the film has a 97% freshness rating at “Rotten Tomatoes”.

Set at the end of the 2^nd World War, the movie deals with 3 servicemen returning to their home in the fictional Boone City, and trying to adjust to the life after war.

Fred, Homer and Al meet and become friends while flying back home.

Fred, who used to be a soda fountain operator at a drugstore, became a decorated Captain in the war, He returns home to find that there is no job other than that of the “Soda Jerker” which he is not very keen to be. His wife also enjoys leading a social life, which the salary of a soda jerk does not permit. Moreover, it’s much more glamorous being the wife of a decorated captain than that of a soda fountain operator.

Homer had lost both his arms from burns suffered when his aircraft carrier was sunk. Homer and his family now have trouble adjusting with his disability. This even causes him to move away from his fiancée, as he does not want her to marry a handicapped man out of sympathy.

Al, the senior most of the three, was a bank loan officer, with a wife and an adult daughter, and a son in college. He is offered a senior position in his bank, as the bank expects many servicemen to approach the bank for loans, and having a serviceman would be convenient. Al also has trouble adjusting back into civilian life. To add to his troubles, is the attraction which develops between his daughter and Fred.

The movie is superlative in capturing the inner struggle of its protagonists and how it affects the people around them. Of course, it would not have been possible but for the excellent performance of all the actors.

The movie is about hope and the strength of the human spirit in overcoming any obstacle.

Number 1- It’s a Wonderful Life

Now this is a movie which always is a topper in any list made of movies, whatever category. So, watch it anytime, and you will know you have seen a classic. Of course, it’s something of staple for Christmas time movie viewing. Somewhat similar to the telecast of “Gandhi” by movie channels on Mahatma Gandhi’s birth anniversary on 2^nd October. This Frank Capra masterpiece stars James Stewart as George Bailey, a man who wants to commit suicide on Christmas Eve, because he feels he is worth more dead than alive.

The story is not new and has been dealt with in different ways in numerous movies and stories. It’s the story of a man who gets a glimpse of what life would have been, if he had not existed, to realize the difference he has made to people around him.

In this story, Bailey leads a life full of sacrifices to allow people around him to fulfill their dreams, be it saving his little brother from drowning in a frozen pond, causing loss of hearing in his left ear, or providing the money saved for his honeymoon to prevent a run on his bank.

It’s a story, which as I mentioned has been told many a times, but I am sure you will still love this one.

Honestly, there is not much to differentiate in the level of performance or direction in this movie or “The Best Years of Our Lives”. But, this movie somehow is just right in keeping with the spirit of Christmas. Hence, it is number 1 on my list of movies to watch this Christmas.

Watch them and let me know if you enjoyed them as much as I did.

Merry Christmas!

Story of An Ordinary Indian Doctor- Dr. Nasser

Being a salesman has its rewards. The one which I treasure the most is perhaps the opportunity it provides to meet with people from varied walks of life during my visits to the various retail showrooms in Calcutta. Everyday, I keep meeting artists who want a smart looking phone, professors from USA holidaying in India, doctors in search of a high speed internet connection, army men enquiring if they can use the phone in Kashmir, rickshaw pullers wanting a low tariff recharge, foreigners asking for directions to the Victoria memorial, bus drivers wondering why their phone is not ringing, employees of foreign embassies requesting for service engineers who can speak proper English...the list goes on...and on...

I met Dr. Nasser, during one such visit to one of our showrooms. He wanted an internet connection for his laptop. We chatted while the transaction was being completed. I came to know that he worked in a well known city hospital. The conversation ended there.

Next time we met was few months later. It was in the same showroom where we had met the first time. He had come to pay his monthly phone bill.

We started chatting about the weather, literally, and before we knew it, he was telling me about his life...

Nasser is the youngest of 2 brothers and 2 sisters. A Kashmiri Muslim by birth, he grew up in the beautiful city of Srinagar. His father was a civil servant in the state government and mother a housewife. His elder brother is a Chartered Accountant. When he wanted to pursue medicine as a profession, his father was against the idea. He wanted his son to become a civil servant. But, sons seldom listen to their fathers, and Nasser completed his MBBS from Government Medical College, Srinagar. He followed this up with a master’s degree in Lucknow, before landing up in Calcutta to pursue his super-specialty course from a well known hospital.

Probably, there is not much to write about Nasser, which is unique enough. But, then again, I found his thoughts reflecting that of many young people including yours truly.

He still wonders whether he took the right decision to stay back in India. One would say, it’s the right decision to stay put give back to your country. But, consider this. Of the 8 friends in his batch who completed their MBBS, 6 went abroad and decided to settle down in the US. This made Nasser wonder if he was doing something stupid, considering majority of his peers were following a different path.

“I know, I will be earning a lot less than what I could have, if I had shifted to the US. But, then again, some of my teachers who inspired me have done just that. They are not just good, but great doctors and are world renowned. But, they have resisted the temptation, and decided to give back to society despite the various challenges”, says Nasser.

“I know, I may be a small fry in the larger scheme of things, but I am confident I can definitely make a difference, howsoever miniscule. Which is why, after completion of my studies, I want to go back to Kashmir, and practice there. I feel, I can make a bigger difference there considering the lack of facilities in the state.”

I asked in return, “Don’t you think that the environment abroad is more conducive to pursue your practice? Will it not provide a much better learning environment? Which in turn, will help you become a much better doctor?”

Nasser replied,” You see, the foreign hospitals definitely have far better facilities and they do provide much better work environment. But, the Indian system teaches you to become street smart, in a way which no first world country can. There is a very good reason for this.  Let’s assume you have high fever with certain x, y and z symptoms. In an US hospital, usually the doctor will have a set of tests conducted which will give very accurate results, and assist in good diagnosis and subsequent treatment. This is the way they are trained. But, in India, our teachers have taught us to approach it in a different way. For the same patient described before, our teachers would ask us, out of these 5 tests, which do you think is the most appropriate for a patient with x, y and z symptoms? ”

According to Nasser, there is a very good reason for this approach. In the west, most of the developed nations are welfare states. Hence, medical expenses are in majority of cases taken care of, by the state. So, conducting plethora of tests to get to the root of the problem is not a cause for concern, for the patient. But, in India, in most cases, the patient’s family would need to shell out the money for all the tests. In most cases, that would be a big burden on the pocket. So, the doctor has to go for the most effective and least expensive path. For an Indian doctor, learning to be street smart, is not just smart, but a matter of life or death.

This logic of Nasser was further corroborated by another friend of mine; Dr. Sajid. Sajid is a surgeon, who has many patients from the lower strata of the society. He told me the story of Iqbal.

Iqbal is a rickshaw-puller in his mid-forties. He has a wife and 2 kids at home. He visited Dr.Sajid with severe lower back pain. For a proper diagnosis and accurate treatment, an MRI was essential. But, an MRI would cost few thousand rupees. And Sajid’s experience told him, that a surgery was required, to treat the problem. That would cost more money and a period of complete bed rest. But, Iqbal is a daily wage earner and if he stays away from work, his family starves. So, what does the doctor do in such a situation, where the best option is not practical for the patient?

Dr. Sajid advised Iqbal to ride his rickshaw maintaining a certain posture which would minimise the damage. He also advised Iqbal to regularly exercise to strengthen the area.

Was it the best possible treatment? Definitely not. But, for doctors like Nasser and Sajid, it’s all about providing the “best fit” treatment.

And it’s because of doctors like Nasser and Sajid, the Indian medical system manages to carry the burden of over 1 billion people.


Note: Names have been changed to protect privacy

Did YOU visit the Paraguayan Harp Concert?

For that matter, do you know when Paraguay earned its independence? And from whom did they win their independence? Don’t worry; even ‘Know-All’ did not know this fact, till he visited the Paraguayan Harp concert which took place in Calcutta last week.

I am a great believer in destiny. Some people would consider it just a coincidence that when I visited ICCR auditorium to watch the dance recital of Rabindranath Tagore’s dance drama, Chitrangada, performed by a friend, I noticed the information standee of a performance of the Paraguayan Harp, by Ismael Ledesma to celebrate 200 years of independence of Paraguay from Spanish rule. Not me. Now, we Calcuttans are always bending over backwards to proclaim our inclination for all things cultural. But, I am not aware of any performance of the Paraguayan Harp, which has taken place in Calcutta before.

Extremely curious, next day I showed up at the designated hour at the ICCR.

Paraguay is a landlocked country in South America with its capital in Asuncion. Small in size, with a population of mere 6.5 million people, it has 2 official languages, Spanish and Guarani. Both languages are widely used. Interestingly, 95% of the population is Mestizo or mixed (European and Native American). This, thanks to the rule set by the first Paraguayan president, Jose Gaspar Rodriguez de Francia in 1814, which forbade colonial citizens from marrying each other, and allowed them to only marry blacks, mullatoes or natives! Paraguay has recently experienced one of the fastest economic growths in the world.

The most popular instruments of Paraguayan music, Ledesma informed the audience, are the Paraguayan Harp and the Spanish Guitar.

The Paraguayan Harp is made from wood and usually has 38 strings. It has an exaggerated neck arch and is played with the fingernail.  But, the interesting fact revealed by Ledesma, was that the Paraguayan Harp traces its origin to India!

Paraguayan music needs to be classified into 2 parts.

Paraguayan Polka or Danza Paraguaya( Paraguayan Dance), a style of music developed in the 19^th century. It is different from European Polka, as the former combines both ternary and binary rhythms, which give it a peculiarity.

Guarania is a style of music created by the musician Jose Asuncion Flores in 1925, with the purpose of expressing the character of the Paraguayan people.this is accomplished by the slow and melancholic rhythms of the songs.

The Guarania enjoys great popularity in the urban areas whereas the people in the countryside prefer the faster paced style of the Polka or the combined genre of “Purahei Jahe’o”.

Ledesma started after a round of introductions from the Paraguayan ambassador to India, Genaro Pappalardo. The music was mellifluous and Ledesma had the audience spell-bound with his versatility. For those who have never heard the Harp played before, it is something of similar to the Indian Santoor or the Jal Tarang. But, the tunes played by Ledesma were a mix of tunes, of which some were Paraguayan folk based and some his own creations. But, the common factor in both was their ability to mesmerize the audience.

He was able to imitate sounds of nature, like the chirp of a bell-bird, which sounds like a bird or that of a waterfall, with equal aplomb! He even imitated the sound of a train and the various noises made by a bus.

Or, for instance the piece called “Happiness in January” which he composed during winter in Paris, which according to him gets very melancholic during that period.

Ledesma, besides being a Harpist par excellence, also showed his sense of humour, while interacting with the audience. “It feels like home here in Calcutta. The buses here are just like the ones we have back home in Asuncion. Also, most people here are of my height, so I don’t feel short!” The audience laughed out loud to show its approval.

After the hour long performance, the audience felt like chanting the Pepsi slogan, “Dil Maange More”.

The little man from Paraguay had won the crowd over, with his child-like smile, humorous quips and stunning performance.

The only disappointment of the evening…. The organizers were selling CDs of Ledesma’s music outside the auditorium. I rushed to the counter and asked the price. “Its only Rs.799 for a CD” I got the reply. Alas, I the great patron of credit cards had only Rs.600 cash in my wallet.

With no ATM in the vicinity, I sadly started walking towards the Maidan Metro Station, to take the next train home.


Footnote: Information about Paraguay and Its music is sources from www.wikipedia.org and the pamphlet provided at the concert.

Feroze Shah Kotla- Delhi's 5th Innings

“Why don’t you go visit Feroze Shah Kotla?” Bill asked me.

“Feroze Shah Kotla? The well known cricket stadium? But, isn’t the cricket series between India and England over?” I wondered. I was visiting Bill and Kay in Gurgaon during Diwali, in what has now become an annual ritual for last 5 years. This year had been no exception, and I was in town during the designated week, end of October.

It was the Friday after Diwali and both Kay and Bill had office, which meant I was left home alone. That’s what prompted Bill to propose the trip to Feroze Shah Kotla(FSK), and made me wonder, why on earth I should be visiting an empty stadium!

Bill explained patiently, “No, Mr. Nincompoop! I don’t want you to visit the stadium. Feroze Shah Kotla happens to be the ruins of what once was Feroze Shah Tughlaq’s palace”. “The stadium” Bill continued, “happens to be so named, because it was built adjacent to the Kotla. Incidentally, Kotla means House, ergo; Feroze Shah Kotla is House of Feroze Shah. The place is not crowded, and has loads of opportunities for good photography. You will enjoy it.”

For a salesman, last week of the month is the worst time to be on leave. And the 25^th floor is not the best place to make phone calls. So, I decided to descend down to earth, spent couple of hours on the phone, all the time, walking while talking! By the time I had finished, it was around 2 pm and I took a rickshaw to Huda City Centre Metro Station and from there a train to Rajiv Chowk. An auto ride of around 15 minutes, and I was in front of Feroze Shah Tughlaq’s palace.

Feroze Shah Tughlaq was the 3^rd ruler of the Tughlaq dynasty (1320-1414 AD), who succeeded his more famous cousin, the genius whose ideas were ahead of his time- Muhammad Bin Tughlaq. He established the city of Ferozabad, 5^th city of Delhi, in the year 1354 AD. The Feroze Shah Kotla happens to be the core of the city ferozabad, and was established as an imperial capital. According to historian Shams Siraj Afif, Ferozabad was an extensive city, extending from the hunting lodge on the northern ridge, established by Feroze Shah, today known as Pir Ghaib, and to the south, till Purana Qila or Old Fort. The city was quite populous and probably had population of around 150,000.

Also known as Kushk-I-Firuz, Feroze Shah Kotla, as per various chroniclers including the great invader Timur, was a grand and opulent royal citadel of Ferozabad. However, none of the costly stones and gilded and painted features, as described them, exist today. Today, what remains are only ruins of this once grand architectural splendor. As the saying goes, what goes around comes around. In later centuries, building material for construction was plundered from Ferozabad for the construction of cities like Din Panah, Shergarh and Shahjahanabad. It’s ironic, because construction material for Ferozabad had been sourced by plundering the older cities of Siri, Jahanpanah and Lal Kot!*

As I reached the gates of the Kotla, I realized something which is consistent for all monuments maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). Firstly, that they know their job when it comes to maintaining the priceless monuments. And secondly, that they are either absolutely ignorant about how to promote these places, or extremely shy about it! You see, the FSK main gate is a good 100 meters from the main road. And there is nothing except a small board which is almost hidden by overgrown shrubs and leaves of trees, to make people aware of the place. It’s as if ASI actively wants to dissuade people from visiting the place. Thankfully, I was forewarned by Bill about this, and had no problems in finding the place.

After buying a ticket worth Rs.5, which incidentally, a foreigner would require to pay Rs.100 (is that not racism, by the way?) I was finally inside FSK!

The place has 4 parts- the palace ruins on the right, a Baoli, the pyramidal structure which supports a huge Ashokan pillar and the ruins of the majestic Jami Masjid.

I decided to start with the palace ruins.  The palace ruins have 2 parts- the Diwan-i-aam or the Palace of Commons and the Diwan-i-Khas or the Palace or Courtiers and counselors. The former was used by the king to hold court for the general public. The latter was used for nobles, courtiers and other men of importance. Not much remains today of what must have once been grand structures, and contained by the 15 meter high citadel walls. Modern residential buildings overlook the walls and have encroached right till the edge of the walls.

The Diwan-i-khas had even less to offer. Today it is just a large open space, which sadly, I found badly littered with papers and thermocol. There is a huge tree in the middle of this, which was visually very striking. After spending some quiet time, I decided to move towards the Jaami Masjid.

The Jami Masjid was the largest mosque before Jama Masjid was built. Today only the remains of the congregational mosque stand. The doorway was once decorated with carved stones, which have since been plundered. In the middle of the courtyard, used to stand a domed structure which had the works and achievements of the Emperor inscribed. The mosque was built on a series of underground cells made of quartzite stone and covered with lime plaster. Timur was so impressed by the grandeur of the mosque, that he apparently had a similar mosque made in his capital, Samarqand, using craftsmen taken from India.*

It was Friday evening, and I was just in time for the evening namaaz. There were many families who had either come for the evening namaaz or just for an outing. Outside the masjid, I saw men performing wazu(act of cleansing one's limbs and face before namaz) in front of few plastic water tanks, placed just for this purpose. Climbing up the steps, I suddenly came to a huge open courtyard. Men and women were scattered around, chatting in small groups. I was standing there quietly, unsure of what I wanted to do next. Suddenly, a small boy, not more than ten years old, walked over to me. He had a black polythene bag with him. He took out something from the bag, and offered to me, saying, “Uncle, Yeh aapke liye.” It was a jalebi. I was touched by the gesture. Knowing from past experience, that kids love being photographed, I offered,”Ao, main tumhara ek photo kheech du.” The boy was polite but firm,”Nahin, nahin, mujhe photo nahin kheechna”. Respecting his right to privacy, I withdrew.

My next destination was the pyramidal structure, adjacent to the masjid, supporting the huge Ashokan pillar.

The Pyramidal structure was specially commissioned by Feroze Shah, to support the 13 metres high Ashokan Pillar, with a diameter of 65 cm at the top and 97 cm at the bottom. The pillar had been originally set up at a place named Topra, near Ambala by the Maurya king Ashoka, with inscriptions of his principles of governance. To transport the 27 tonne pillar, Feroze Shah had the pillar wrapped with cotton silk and laid on a bed of reed made of raw silk and transported in a massive carriage with 42 wheels and drawn by 200 men!*

 I could see that many men and women were on top of the pyramidal building but apparently all the gates were locked. Then, an elderly lady showed that one of the grills of the gate was broken and that was the only way in! I wriggled inside and officially became a trespasser in the eyes of ASI!

The steps, as in all historical buildings, were very steep. But, once you reach the top, the view will take your breath away.  I was just in time to a get a bird’s view of the namaz at the adjacent jami masjid. I managed to get some wonderful shots. The stadium and modern roads in the background provided a stark contrast to this ancient but grand structure.

Next up was the Baoli (well) about which Bill had spoken as a must watch. Sadly, this place was also under lock and no broken grills materialized for my convenience, through which I wriggle through!

The Baoli or well was a source of water for the citadel. Unlike more common step wells this does not have steps leading to the level of water. The circular well, open well, has provision for water to be pulled up by a pulley. A complex system of pipes and channels pumped the water to the roof and from there to the outside.*

As I was cursing my luck at not being able to get inside the baoli, and clicking photos from the outside, suddenly a voice called from behind, “Hello, yahaan photo lena mana hai”. I ignored the voice and kept on shooting. The voice kept on repeating the same thing,”Yahan photo lena mana hai, photo mat lo”. Finally, the same voice said, “Uncle, humara ek photo kheech dijiye please!” I turned around to find a small boy of around ten or eleven and a girl of around thirteen or fourteen. I smiled, “Zaroor, ao samne khare ho jao” The girl, who seemed to be his elder sister, shied away. This made the boy hesitant. I reassured, “Koi baat nahin, tum to aa jao. Tumhara photo lete hain”. Reassured, he posed stiffly as if ready to sing the national anthem. I said, “Arre thoda haso to sahi. Achcha batao tum kaun se class me padte ho?”

He gave a wonderful smile and replied,”Class 6D”. I smiled inside at his innocence. I said my good byes to the kids and started walking in the surrounding lawns, with the chirping of the birds returning to their homes, providing company. I was lost in thoughts when suddenly my mobile phone rang. It was Kay.

“Where are you? Still at the Kotla? There is a problem. You have one set of keys and Bill has the other. I am unable to get back home. Get back home as fast as possible”

I turned my back to Feroze Shah’s Kotla and started walking towards the exit.

*Source: Archaeological Survey of India

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Food of Calcutta- The Blue Poppy

One of my previous blogs had discussed the growing popularity of Tibetan cuisine, primarily momos, in Kolkata. Easy to make, non-oily hence more healthy and affordable. These are some of the reasons, which have made momos popular in the city. Today I intend to write about a restaurant which I discovered as late as August 2011, even though I have been residing in Calcutta for more years than I care to remember.

The Blue Poppy, is a non-fussy, basic sit-in joint serving Tibetan, Nepali, Bhutanese and Chinese cuisine at extremely affordable prices. For those familiar with Calcutta but not aware of the restaurant ( and to my surprise, there are so many of them), The Blue Poppy is located on the first floor of Sikkim House on Middleton Street.

Its a small, approximately 40 seater joint, with basic amenities. The decor, though not expensive, is quite tastefully done. The lighting and the lamp shades used deserve special mention. The first thing that comes to notice is the warmth of the people. The 2 ladies who manage the show, are extremely cordial and ever smiling. They keep a moving around and exude informal warmth, which is very refreshing. They will also guide you if you are in the mood for trying out some of the non-regular food items.

But, it’s the food which is the real show-stealer. For those who have been frequenting the Tibetan food joints of Elgin Road, it’s a must visit place. For one, restaurants on Elgin Road have lost their way over the years, be it regarding the quality of food or the overall service quality. And, Blue Poppy is really a hands down winner in comparison, on both counts.

I have been to the place many times and have stuck only to the Tibetan fare till now. Besides the steamed momos, you can also try the Kothay. It is steamed momo, which has been fried on the pan. The pan fried momos are also very good and definitely worth a try. But, whatever you eat, don’t forget to try out the chilli sauce which my nephew and niece call the nani sauce...so hot that...nani yaad aa jayegi!  One observation. The size of the momos seems to have reduced recently.

But, my favourite dish is the Mixed Phaktu. It may be termed as the first cousin of the thukpa. There are 2 differences. The broth or soup of the phaktu is much thicker and the noodles are hand-made. Hence, the shapes are different and nicely non-uniform. All in all, extremely deliciously and very filling.

The Chinese fare served is quite ordinary, and I would not recommend it. My friend had tried out the Nepali thali, which has an assortment of vegetable curries and a chicken preparation. All these are served with rice. He was not too impressed, but I am quite curious to try out not just the Nepali thali but also the Bhutanese dish. Will update on those on a future date.

The crux of a long story...must visit place for any Tibetan food lover.

Pujo Kemon Katlo?

One of the Idols of Durga

That’s a question, which is on the lips of all Bengalis meeting any other Bengali speaking person on the face of mother earth, for at least couple of weeks after Bijoya Dashami, the last day of the 5 day long Durga Pujo festival. This after the first statement- Shubho Bijoya, a greeting to any person one meets after the Vijay Dashami.



Durga Pujo, is something which has been written about, photographed, debated about, by innumerable people across the globe. But, none of these can really prepare you for the sheer scale of razzmatazz which plays out in the city of Calcutta during this period. You really have to experience it in person to understand what I am talking about. If you have not done it yet, please book your tickets for next year’s pujo NOW!

Sea of People out on the Streets

But, I don’t want to discuss the glitz and lights of the pujos or even the sea of human beings descending upon the streets of Calcutta, all sporting million dollar smiles and new clothes, in that order. I don’t want to discuss the copious amount of food any average Calcuttan consumes during these four days, nor the fact that one hardly stays at home during this period, or the fact that hundreds of thousands of people roam around the city all night long, without any security concerns whatsoever.

Like any big event, the anticipation of the approach of Durga pujo is much more exciting than the four days of the event itself, which is gone before you can say Ouagadougou! People in Calcutta spend way beyond their capabilities on new clothes and gifts for relatives. Calcuttans staying outside, count the number of days to D-Day (nowadays the countdown is done on the walls of Facebook!), when they descend from all across the globe, to the city of their origin.

But, it’s the AFTER pujo period, which hits you with the intensity of a nuclear aircraft carrier! The day after Vijay Dashami, the streets wear a deserted look, which a stranger to the city might consider to be the result of a curfew. People reporting to work, do so with a hangover of four days of revelry and a heavy heart. And the only topic of discussion- you guessed it right- Pujo Kemon Katlo?

Pujo Kemon Katlo?

Which roughly implies- How did you spend the time during pujo?

I asked this question to many people/friends last week and found varied answers, from people of different strata of society. I am sharing the responses of 5 of my friends.

Pujo Kemon Katlo?

Answer from middle aged Security Guard at my GYM-

Arre Dada, aamader aar pujo te ki aache?

What’s there for us during the pujo? I had to spend the entire pujo at the gym building itself. Since the gym was closed during 4 days of pujo, I could spend the time watching the coverage of various pujos on TV, inside the gym. Of course, my kids want to go out, but then again, what can I do? My job is such that I cannot afford to join the revelries...

Answer from Vegetable vendor at the local market:

I return home from the wholesale market at 1:30 a.m. in the morning after buying all the stuff for the next day’s market. And then, I am back in the market at 6 a.m. Tell me dada, after such a hectic day, where does one get the energy to go pandal hopping? But, still I had to take my kids out, or else they would be having long faces.

Answer from young Fish vendor at the same market:

Oh Pujo! I had a great time! You know why???

·         Firstly, because it did not rain at all during the pujos. So, I could really enjoy myself.

·         Secondly, because I had managed to get myself a volunteer’s pass, which allowed me along with 3 of my friends to enter some of the famous pandals, without having to stand in the long queues.

It was hectic. After all, I had to be in the market from early morning till late afternoon, but then again, this is durga pujo. Its once a year, so I don’t mind the extra workload. The fun I had made me forget all my tiredness...

Answer from a Rickshaw-wallah in my para/locality:

Babu, I did not have a good time this pujo?  You ask why?? How can we have a good time, if we can’t make some extra income!! This year the police did not allow us to ply after 4 p.m. during 4 days of pujo. They had made the rule for both auto-rickshaws and rickshaws, but the auto-rickshaw drivers put on a road block and were allowed to ply. No such luck for us. Tell me dada, if you cannot go near the pandals, how can you get passengers??

Na Dada, this year pujo was not good for me...

But, the best response was of course from Biplab, the Head Steward at a famous Calcutta restaurant, known for its wonderful Biryani and other mughlai cuisine. I must add that Biplab is an extremely cheerful, energetic person, who can make your experience even better. Being a frequent customer, we share quite a friendly relation. This was his answer:

Pujo??? That’s for guys like you to celebrate...For me it’s the same routine questions to be asked-Sir, what would you like to order? Biryani? How many plates, sir? Special or regular?

Yesterday, we had customers till 4 a.m. in the morning, and even in the wee hours, they will start ordering all the way from starters and finish with desserts! And today again I was back early morning, after couple of hours of sleep.

You should the antics of some of the customers. One group of people came at 3:30 a.m. and ordered for Biryani. Nothing unusual there. Then they asked if we had any Dal??

I said- Sir, we have Dal Makhani, but are you sure you want dal with Biriyani?

Customer: Sure, sure... we don’t mind. Dal die biryani mekhe kheye nebo!!! We will mix it with the biryani and eat it.

I nearly fainted on hearing that!!!

Let me tell about another customer. Post dinner, finger bowl was placed in from of him. He squeezed a lemon in the water and gulped it down! I gaped in horror. The customer said- Don’t worry, it will help digest the food better!!!

Tell me, after all this; do I need any further entertainment during pujo? My customers provide me enough entertainment.

Shubho Bijoya!